Tag Archive: Accra

Superglue Situations

At home, I often find myself in what my friends and I call “sticky situations”. I have three problems; the first is that my flirting skills are about as good as my running skills. Awkward and slow. It seems I can only flirt when I am unaware that I am flirting. The second problem is; I am oblivious to others flirting with me. It’s not until the situation gets real “sticky” (aka uncomfortable) that I start to realize I may have lead this person on…and I have no intention with following through with anything that they may have in mind. Alyssa has come to my rescue on more than one occasion. My third problem is; those sticky situations tend to only happen with people I have no interest in. Oh, make that four problems;  when I see someone I am attracted to I stutter and say awkward things and just like when I run, I get nowhere.

Well, there is the rare occasion that I can foresee the potential for a sticky situation to occur, and I am able to turn around and walk the other direction. My friends are much better at recognizing these situations than I am, but nonetheless, there are some occasions when even I, Oblivious Abby, see it’s time to turn around.

A couple months back, a professor asked me and my friend Svenja to join him and a group of biology professors for drinks on a Friday night. We looked at each other, made a silent agreement, and then turned to our professor and told him we would be happy to join them. Walking away we thought, “WOW…Did we just get a date with the biology department?”. I couldn’t do that in America (despite how hard I try). So, off we went, the two of us to have drinks with the professors. I don’t usually drink, but I thought it would be that much funnier if I had a beer- so Svenja and I both ordered one.

Well awkward would be one way to describe our date. First, we met the dean of students. That was scary. Then, conversation did not flow very well, and there was definitely a cultural barrier that made certain topics a little bit uncomfortable to talk about (like religion and gay marriage) which the professors insisted in perusing. When Svenja and I finally finished our drink, we thanked everyone and walked away, agreeing that we had no intention getting drinks with the professors again, but also agreeing that in 10 years, we could make that story out to be hilarious.

That brings us to today. Sticky. Svenja and I are the only two foreign students in the class, so we stand out. Today was our last lecture, and Svenja was traveling, so I went all by myself –which in itself is quite an accomplishment because usually I can’t do anything myself (aside from getting on a plane and flying to Africa).  When it comes to getting lunch or walking to the campus post office, I am always in need of partner. I decided, while sitting there, that Svenja is the only thing that helped me survive that class. I could not have done it without her, I would have stopped showing up long ago. Although, after what happened, I don’t think I will go anywhere near the department, with OR without her, again.

Finally, the lecture was done. I am done with classes in Ghana. My mood is ecstatic. No more 5 hour classes ever. EVER. Then I heard my professor call out my name. I turned around and he asked me if I was traveling this weekend. Usually, I say yes, in fear of being asked out for drinks again, but today, my mood and the prospect of never having another droning lecture prompted me to tell the truth “No, I’m not traveling.” Oops. I knew I shouldn’t have said it the moment it happened. He asked me to go and have a drink. We were supposed to meet at five.

The rest of the day, I had a sticky feeling growing in the back of my mind. I did not want to go get a beer with my professor. Not without Svenja. I contemplated asking a friend to come with me, but then I thought, is that rude in Ghanaian culture? Can you bring extra guests when someone invites you somewhere? No, it would be better to just skip it. It took me about 2 hours to figure out a believable excuse as to why I could not be at the bar. My plan was to go back to the hostel, send an email that said, “I am so sorry I was not able to come by today, a friend of mine got sick and asked if I would accompany her to the hospital so she could get tested for Malaria.” So simple. So easy. So believable. Problem solved.

Except that on my way back I ran into him (luckily, I had not sent my lying email yet). He said we could just walk to the bar together. Sticky sticky sticky. Ok, plan B, I will tell him I have to be somewhere in 45 minutes- so one quick drink, no harm done. At this point, all I could think was that I had better get an A in this class.

First, he told me a little about his family. He has a daughter that is 1 ½ and he is married to a nice woman in Accra. I almost thought that the evening would be ok- which is what I always think and how I get myself into these sticky situations.

He then asked me “What is the obsession with Americans and big houses and big cars?” I responded, “I don’t know. I suppose it’s the bigger is better philosophy.” He then responded “You know, Ghanaians have one thing that is always bigger.”


I picked up my drink, started to gulp it down rather quickly so I could make a fast escape without appearing rude, and before this situation could turn to superglue. He then asked me what my plans were for my life, family wise. I responded “I am not quite sure. I don’t see myself getting married or having kids any time soon- I want to see the world first.” He then told me I was crazy, and continued on to tell me about how polygamy is accepted in Ghana, and he was curious about what my views were.

Sticky. How fast can I drink my beer?

Ok, fast forward 15 minutes….to where it gets to be like super glue.

My professor said “I was wondering if I was to come spend the night at your hostel sometime- how would you feel about that?” I said “I would feel weird about that.” My beer is almost gone. Gulp gulp gulp.

He asked “What is weird, what does that mean?”

I said “Abnormal, uncomfortable, strange.”

“Why would it be weird?”

“Well, I have never had a professor ask if he can spend the night before.”

This is a superglue type of situation we have here.

“Oh, drop the professor, I am just a Ghanaian friend asking to visit you.”

Ok, beer finished.

“Umm, we’re not allowed to have overnight guests. Sorry.” (All manners forgotten. My escape plan ready…)

“Oh that’s ok, I will just pay the people at the front, and I can come visit you.”

“Uh, I am really sorry, I have to go. I am meeting my friends in front of the hostel in 5 minutes. Thanks for the drink.” (I stand up….)

“Ok have a good time. I will stop by the hostel on December 12 and stay that night and the night of the 13th– that way you can have some crazy nights before you leave.”

“I will have to check- I think I might be traveling. Thanks again!”

“Oh no no no” he says to me, “Block those dates out- don’t travel!  I’ll see you on the 12th.”

After I skedaddling out of there rather quickly, I then just wanted to laugh. How could this horrible awful class that I dread going to two times a week, get any worse? I thought it was over!  Just yesterday I was saying that I missed getting positive male attention however I got a little more than I bargained for today. Mie said she can’t wait to look attractive again…yet I am feeling a bit too attractive at the moment. Yikes. Awkward. Sticky. Sticky. Sticky. Superglue. What do I do? Call my mom of course.

Oops. I kinda freaked her out too. Again. Oops.

Ok, time to run and tell Mie…and everyone else. They all looked at me wide-eyed and couldn’t believe it. Then Mie agreed to be “hit by a car” so that I could “spend a couple nights at the hospital with her” on the nights currently in question.

I definitely did not wake up this morning thinking this would how my day would turn out. Now I’ll have to see how my grade turns out.

But hey- when I am out of the Ghana,  I ‘ll be stoked to have a funny superglue type of story to tell.

Just in case you are wondering, I do not have any pictures to post with this blog.

How I Got My Goat Back

Last weekend was Halloween, and considering the nature of the holiday, we thought, how better to spend it then to go to the Voodoo capital and try our luck with the fates? Although the trip was one of the best I have been on since I have been in West Africa, I succeeded in scaring my mom more than the time that I ran in to her room screaming about burning my hand only to find out later I had also melted the kitchen floor with a hot pot… She took it really well then too.


We were going for 5 days, and I guess I did not properly pass on that message to the most important of people, so my mom sent a frantic message to everyone she knew I knew, asking where I was. My friend Kobe, after receiving the message, tried to call me a couple times and when I didn’t answer, he thought I had been Voodooed. Oops.

Well, I am happy to say, that I am currently unaware of any effects of Voodoo taking place against me, but pleased to report that on this trip, I successfully got my goat back. Problem solved.

We left at 4:30am in order to catch a bus at a station that we (and seemingly none of the Ghanaians) knew about, in order to jump on a bus by 6:30. Luckily, we for once,  had no problem getting to the station and we were on the bus bound for Benin by 5 AM.

Photo by Zakary Pearsall

Photo by Zakary Pearsall

There were some very obvious differences between Benin  and Ghana.  I noticed the moment I got there that Benin is a much poorer country than Ghana- apparent by the type of buildings and houses that we saw outside of the major city.  There were hardly any car taxis, and so we traveled by moto taxi or as they call it- zem.  (Most of the people I saw driving cars were white). A moto taxi is a taxi by motorcycle. There was really no other way to get around Benin, but regardless, when I jumped on the back for my first ride, I thought two things.  The first thing I thought was, “I can’t believe I am on the back of a motor cycle in the middle of West Africa with no Helmet”  I would never have guessed that this is where I would have ended up last Halloween! The second thought-that came very quickly after the first was, “My mom is going to kill me when she sees pictures!”

I’ve heard that most people look back on experiences like this twenty years later and say, “That probably wasn’t the smartest thing to do”.  However, I am fully ready to admit, not more than a couple days later, that the moto taxi thing was a tad risky.  However, it seems that my Voodoo omens are promising; I made it out alive despite the poorly paved streets, the lack of helmets, and the blatant disregard for speed limits!

I felt like I was inside one of those stories that you hear from older people talking about their travels, when they were young. It was (almost miserably) hot, we carried all our stuff on our back, risked our lives several times a day by jumping on zems, ate cheap (but delicious) food

Yes, that's a chocolate croissant. There is a GREAT French Bakery in Benin!

and stayed at hotels that cost the equivalent of $5-10 a night. Needless to say, they were not five-star rooms- one guy even tried to tell us that we only get one towel per room (there were 2 of us in the room). However, I am stoked to have a backpacking across Africa story to tell in 20 years or so.

Obama Beer! Photo by Zakary Persall

While we traveled around, we drank a considerable amount of water, and for some reason the only waters we could find were bottled.  In Ghana, everyone has bagged water! So, we bought numerous bottles, and the moment any of us finished one, people asked us for them.  At one point, I had an empty bottle in my bag and when I handed it to the lady that asked, another person ran up and snatched the one I was finishing out of my hand. We assume that people are able to resell the bottles at the markets because some stalls at the market we visited had nothing but baskets full of empty plastic bottles of all shapes and sizes.

Photo by Zakary Pearsall

There are also very few gas stations in Benin. Most of the gas is sold on the side of the road from glass jars sitting on tables. From what I understand, a lot of  the gasoline smuggled in from Nigeria, because it is so much cheaper than to have it imported from other places and buy it from a gas station.

Photo by Zackary Pearsall

On Halloween night, we stayed in the place where Voodoo was supposed to be the most prevalent in Benin. We visited the Python Temple where people worship their python Voodoo God, and the guide tried to get us all to hold snakes. He assured us that the pythons were defanged and could not hurt us; however, I have held snakes before and am now perfectly happy standing 3 feet away. I would have hated to drop one of the Gods, knowing I was going to have to leave the temple risking my life on a zem.  The additional worry of possibly facing some bad Voodoo on top of that was not appealing.

Photo by Zackary Pearsall

We also visited the Sacred forest, where thousands of people visit every year for a Voodoo festival in January to me it looked like a “Secret Garden”.

That Halloween night, we stayed at a hotel where we are pretty sure we were the only guests.  There were tons of spiders crawling around the room, and they were BIG spiders. (A great Halloween experience, no?) Luckily, my roommate Mie,  is brave and killed all the spiders–although she said she felt bad about it. At home she never kills spiders, she just gets her vacuum out and vacuums them up. I told her not to worry, that I am fully ready to accept all the blame.

Mie, the brave big spider killer!

My mom sent some Halloween candy in a package for me as well as some Halloween Mad Libs and spider rings.

Happy Halloween in Benin (it rhymes!) Peanut M&Ms, mini Oreos, and Goldfish crackers!

At the end of our meal-we all dug in.  All the Americans in the group enjoyed a taste of Trick-or-treat candy from home. After dinner, we taught Mie, from Denmark,  how to play Mad Libs (she loved it). Then we stayed up really late laughing more than I have laughed on this trip, while playing cards and Uno.

Overall, I had a very happy, creepy-crawly Halloween.

All in all, when I got back to Accra, I felt like Africa had practically thrown my goat back at me, deciding that it no longer had use of it. If anyone decides to go to Benin- make sure you have Mad Libs and Uno on the necessities side of the packing list.  Maybe a helmet would be a wise addition, too…




Most days, I wake up ready to take on Africa. I wake up knowing nothing will happen that I can’t handle.  I know I will most likely learn something new. All I have to do is roll with the punches, not lose confidence, keep a strong head on my shoulders, and keep thinking that I can do anything and that nothing will get the better of me.

Well, today I was a bit…tired…borderline cynical…OK, full blown cynical. I had a dream that I went home, and really really missed Ghana, but when I woke up…I couldn’t remember what I would miss . On a regular day, I can give you multiple reasons why I would miss Ghana, but today, the gloomiest of all my days so far, I had some trouble.

Reason #1
I am tired of public transportation.

Every time I get in a tro-tro I find myself wondering how, and if, the tro -tro is going to make it to the next stop. The doors take a good amount of force to shut, and when they do shut, the whole tro-0tro shudders. The seats sway back and forth when the tro- tro brakes or speeds up. Tro-tros are always braking or speeding up. They are a  little smelly, OK…I’ll say it, they stink.  And they’re hot.  On top of this, you have to fight for a  seat!  Have you ever fought for a seat on hot, smelly, shaky public transportation that you are 90% sure is not going to make it to your destination without breaking down?

There are options though.  There are taxis.  They are more expensive than tro-tros, of course. Plus, there are no street names, no GPS, and no big landmarks to help the drivers. If you are going someplace obscure (or not so obscure-such as returning to the University of Accra) you kind of have to know where you are going, so you can direct the taxi driver on how to get there (and back). I would not recommend trying to get to the Embassy of Benin by taxi.  That’s what I had to do today. The taxi driver didn’t know where it was.  I didn’t either, but I had the address from the embassy’s Internet page.  The Embassy of Benin had the wrong address listed…

My mom told me told me to look at the  situation and ask myself, “What can I learn from this?” Well, I was being cynical and responded, “When I am lost, when it’s 95 degrees outside with 97% humidity, in a taxi with a driver that speaks very little English, and I am under a time constraint…I’m not really looking to learn anything.”

Maybe tomorrow there will be something new to learn.  Not today though. Today I am totally frustrated.

Reason #2
I am a  done with eating rice and beans, and fried chicken.

I’m sick of joloff rice, I’m sick watche (rice and beans together). I can’t bring myself to eat any more red-red (beans-similar to refried), and I never really liked fried chicken in the first place. No more! I want sushi, and pasta, and Indian food, and huge salads, all of which are very expensive in Ghana. I could buy dinner for a month for the price of one meal of sushi, or pasta or a salad. My mom said “Go get some then! Then go back to the Ghana diet.” Honestly, I think that’s what started this issue.

Weeks ago, my mom asked me what food I wanted when I got home. I told her that honestly, I have forgotten what food tastes like. I don’t really remember the things I used to love. I was telling the truth. I was totally happy with fried rice and spicy sauce. Yumm.

Well, then, the next week, I had sushi. And pasta. And Indian food. And salad. I remember what food tastes like now, and all I want are big expensive meals, without rice, beans or fried chicken. Humph.

Reason #3
At first, I was adjusting well to “Ghana time”. Fifteen minutes behind schedule? Nooo worries. But now, I just want to get things moving!

I went to lab today, and after 30 minutes, I started drawing the specimens because, let’s face it, I have other things I to do (like getting a taxi and going to the Embassy of Benin). Cynical moment, I tell you! Well,  I got into trouble for starting to draw!  I was informed I was not allowed to start the lab before we do the “pre-lab”.  Together.  “What’s the pre-lab?” you ask? The lab assistant reads the questions out loud!  Great. Helpful.  Good use of class time, don’t you think?  I had already read the lab questions, by myself, to myself (while waiting for the lab assistant to arrive on “Ghana time”!  So, why did I need to waste an additional thirty more minutes while the lab assistant read the questions out loud?

I could have spent that time ordering more rice and beans and fantasizing about sushi. Or looking up the wrong address of the Embassy of Benin on the Internet.

Reason #4
Being stared at is getting old.

When people stare at me on campus, I want to let them know, that I, and many other obrunis very much like myself, have been on campus for 2 ½ months so, “Why are you still gawking at me?”  Of course, the feeling intensified today because I was already irritated.  Honestly, who wants people staring at them when they are in a bad mood?

It’s amazing how much attention I get. One guy (who looked homeless) asked me if I wanted to have his baby, like he would be doing me a great kindness! Another guy ran after me with a cell phone, trying to get a picture of my hair. Others see me and Mie walking around and scream out the window “Obruni, let me take you somewhere! I will drop you off!!” Once I timed the number of honks, only honks, I got in 10 minutes.  Each individual car (no matter how many honks from that particular car) counted as one.  TEN! Ten in ten minutes.  Don’t tell me that’s not annoying.  You multiply that out by 2 1/2 months and a minimum of four walked miles a day.

Hmmm…maybe when I get back I will miss being a center of attention.

Reason #5
I stopped reading Harry Potter and went to swim practice only to find out it was canceled. Ghana should know better than to interrupt my quality Harry Potter time for nothing!

The coaches told me to come back at 5:30 AM tomorrow morning.  That did nothing to lift my mood either.

I’m hot, fantasizing about food, wasting time on “Ghana time”, harassed…and now Harry Potter is involved. This just got serious.

That’s all I’m saying.

I’m going to go take a cold shower now. Only forty-nine to go. If the water holds out.

Day 63

Out for another walk across campus.

Yesterday marked the halfway point of my stay in Ghana, so I thought it would be a good time to look at some of the things I have experienced in Ghana, as compared to how it would have been at home Maybe at the end of the trip, I will have 20 more things.

1. I think the biggest difference I have thus far experienced is the concept of time. In America, time is money – everything is fast-paced.  Lectures don’t go over the allotted time, a schedule is adhered to, food is taken on the go, and people try not to be late. Here, time seems to mean something completely different. There is no belief that time is money, or that time is limited ; here, everyone has all the time in the world. Professors show up 15 minutes late to class regularly, and then go over time, regularly – sometimes by talking about things that are not remotely related to the subject they are supposed to be teaching. Everyone is really laid back, and when you come from a fast-paced society, it can test your patience.

2. The showers are cold. I didn’t really mind at first, but now showers seem to be more of a chore than anything….and sometimes I count the days I have left in Ghana by the number of cold showers I will need to take. I have 63 more cold showers to take…ooooohhhh….shiver.

3. There is a lot of American music on the radio stations, but every song that plays—every song that I recognize–is by an African-American artist. I have yet to hear a Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, or Justin Beiber song (not that I am particularly upset about it). And, funny enough – that “Black and Yellow” song was changed to “Green and Yellow” here. (Because of the Ghanaian flag?)

It's always an adventure on a tro tro. On one trip, whenever we got to a "hill" all the passengers had to get out, walk up the hill, then get back on the tro tro at the top of the hill. We had to do this three times in one trip.

4. Cheese is hard to come by. Laughing Cow cheese (you know – the processed spreadable stuff that kinda-sorta tastes like cream cheese) is not hard to come by. Laughing Cow cheese is super cheap here (interesting because it’s very expensive at home). If you order a cheese burger here, the cheese on top is Laughing Cow cheese. LOL

5. The bread is really sweet, and made with nutmeg. It tasted really good the first couple times, but now I am finding myself craving a good hearty, and not sweet, bread. Try living on the good ol’ Hawaiian buns you can get at Safeway, then you’ll feel my pain. I miss sourdough, mmmmmmmmm.

One of the many markets in Ghana.

6. All meals consist of at least one of the following (usually more); rice, beans, cabbage salad, plantains, and stew. A lot of times, it is served in a bag. I hope that everyone that comes here isn’t OCD about their food touching, because if you get 50 peswas of rice, 30 salad, and 20 plantains, it’s all going in the same bag, on top of each other- covered in a spicy sauce. Yum.

My Favorite Ghanaian Meal, Groundnut Stew with Fufu.

7. Ice cream and water also come in a bag. It’s going to be interesting going home eating on dishes and drinking out of glasses again.

8. Marriage is a common topic of conversation and a thing to joke about. School girls are not supposed to grow out their hair until they are done with school, indicating they are ready for marriage. Honestly, I have never felt so single in my life – but considering I still get a number of marriage proposals (is it my long hair?!), it’s not something I dwell on. In the countries that surround Ghana, it is almost unheard of for a girl in her twenties not to be married, and not to have any children.

9. The copyright policy is somewhat…relaxed. If you need to read pages from a text-book, make copies, if you want to watch a movie that just came out in theaters there are guys on every corner selling bootleg copies, if you want to download music for free it’s OK to do so on the school internet (and you will not get a follow-up email from the school administration/security/cops telling you that you have 60 minutes to get the content off your computer, as you would back in the US).

10. When the power goes out, life keeps going. Weird concept, eh? Classes still go on, people still go to work, and food is still cooked. I was under the impression that the world stopped when power went out. Evan, Hannah, and I always pulled out the candles, a deck of cards, and special snacks for the occasion. I kinda miss that….

One of the hotels I have stayed at. Note the thickness of the hotel matressses, and the size of the pillows.

11. The water goes out sometimes. I never imagined that happening – once it went out for 3 days, and I thought the world was ending (much more so than when the power goes out), until I found out that one girl had been out of water for a month. When I heard that, I thought twice about being so lucky as to have the cold showers…most of time.

12. The men shave their armpits, and the women do not necessarily shave their legs. Now this is something I am adjusting to nicely. Smooth arm pits and hairy legs are things that I can deal with . The arm pit thing is a matter of hygiene, it is taught in school that you should shave your armpits (Mie said that it should become a world-wide mandate). Hair that is elsewhere is seen as god-given (as opposed to armpit hair?!) and should not be removed (even facial hair).

13. There are no credit cards. It is rare for a Ghanaian to have any debt because everything is paid upfront. Kinda cool if you ask me.

The Voodoo Market.

14. Christmas decorations are available in stores in Ghana by October. Just like at home.

15. Salty snacks are pretty rare, and really expensive (a snack size tube of Pringles costs about $4.00. To put the cost in perspective, a full meal often costs less than $1). I never knew how much I craved salt until all of a sudden the bread is sweet, and snacks are mainly cookies. I can’t wait to eat Goldfish or Cheese- Its again. Mmmmm, salt! One day I bought French Fries – and even though they were ice cold, they were covered in salt, and quite possibly the best French Fries I have ever eaten.

A walk across a bridge.

16. Walking is definitely more challenging. I walk about 4-5 miles a day, but it’s not normal walking. I have to watch out for roots, uneven pavement, lizards, ditches, pointy rocks, and “Obruni Traps” (gutters that line the sidewalks-sometimes full of murky water, sometimes just full of leaves). Needless to say, learning my way around campus took a lot longer than usual, because I was always looking down!

17. Funerals are just as big and as joyous as weddings are. When I got to Ghana, one of the first question I was asked was “When people die, how long do they usually spend in the morgue before the funeral?”…Kinda a weird question, eh?  I said not more than a couple days.  The guy asking the question laughed in astonishment and responded by saying, people in Ghana can be in the morgue for months and months, sometimes a year! It takes a long time to plan a funeral. Often, funerals are several days long- each day celebrating a different aspect of life.

18. The doodles on the desks in the classrooms are not vulgar. At home, there often nude pictures drawn on the desks or something mean is written, directed to no one in particular, or at everyone. Here, all the writings on the desks say things like “Jesus loves you” and “God is great”.

19. Vegetables can be incredibly expensive. A pound of asparagus costs about the equivalent of $15, and a small bag of chopped cauliflower, about $12. It’s OK though- I never did like ‘em much. Cabbage salad is good enough for me!

20. Everyone here is just really pretty. Their faces are pretty, their legs are long, everyone has some muscle tone (if not totally ripped), and they’re just…pretty. I have yet to see an ugly person in Ghana.

Day 63! Loving this!!

University Swim Team

I cannot run. I have tried for a number of years to run, twenty!, but when it comes down to it, I can’t.  I just don’t know how everyone else seems to be able to do it. I have heard it’s all about the breathing pattern, so I have tried a couple different breathing patterns yet I still end up huffing and puffing after only a couple meters. Then I heard it’s all about endurance.  Not for me. If I “run” 400 meters today, and each day for the rest of the week, I still find I am not able to get any farther or any faster the next week (and honestly, running 400 meters is still pushing it). I envy everyone who can run.  I want to be able to do triathlons, and half marathons, and marathons, and 5ks and 10ks.  Runners just looks so…..good…and healthy, and joyous. But, I. Cannot. Run. I’ll keep trying, of course, but I am pretty sure the next 20 years will be as futile as the first 20 years.

On the other hand, I can swim. In fact, I can swim like I can walk; forever and ever. When I first got my acceptance into this program, I mentioned to my mom that the University had a swim team. She got really excited and said I should join. My initial response? No way. My swim team days are over; way too much time, way too much commitment, and way too much work. No way.

But, I have never been able to stay away from the pool for too long. By the second semester at my home university, I was looking for a water polo team to join. There wasn’t one.  My home university doesn’t even have a regulation pool. So I went home and worked at a pool for the summer, when I went back to the university joined the masters lap swim program. Swimming has turned into an addiction. Almost a nasty  addiction- swimming ruins your hair, dries out your skin, and makes you really tired. But, in spite of all that, it feels really good to be a swimmer.

As I was walking from campus to my room in the International hostel, in the 97% humidity, and the sun blaring down on my shoulders, I saw a white sign with big bold letters:  Swim Team tryouts will be held this Friday. Everyone interested must be able to swim 50 meters of any stroke.  (Note the sign said ANY stroke, not ALL strokes).

Man, did that sign seem to sing to me. Honestly, I was so excited thinking about being part of a swim team again that I started getting a strange feeling in the pit of my stomach. I never thought I would be a part of a swim team again, especially not a swim team at the University of Ghana, Accra!

When tryouts came, I self-consciously stood around for about 30 minutes before I was allowed to enter the water. I did not have a competitive swim suit at the time, so I was wearing my beach suit.  You should have seen the looks the other swimmers were giving me. Even though they said nothing to me out loud, I could hear them thinking, “Who is this white girl coming in the fancy suit thinking she can join the swim team?” and I knew they were adding on, ” Look at her! I will be able to beat her no problem.”

Then I started swimming. I was swimming at the same time as some other people, including one Ghanaian male swimmer. At the end of my first 50 meter freestyle, the coach looked at me and said “Can you swim all the strokes?” ….. “Ummmm yeah.”…… “Ok-let me see.”  Alright, I thought, no problem, backstroke here we go. By the end of the second lap, that Ghanaian male swimmer came up behind me, huffing and puffing, barely able to get any words out and said “Wow, you’re really fast.” Oh, what a good feeling! I was never fast when I was swimming at home, and I haven’t  done laps in months, but here I am, the white girl in the fancy swim suit, beating the totally ripped (and pretty cute) Ghanaian male swimmer!  Fantastic, I like this team already.  After breaststroke and butterfly, all the coaches had come over to watch me. They started asking if I had ever swam on a team before, and letting me know that I have a really nice stroke. My tryout was over, and they told me I was qualified for the swim team. Thank goodness!

On the first day of practice, I showed up in the same fancy swim suit, and again, no one took me seriously. The coach put me going 4th.  In the first 50 meters of warm up, I had already passed everyone in my lane. The odd part was, when I asked if I could go ahead of everyone, they all said “No, you’re supposed to be 4th.”  What a pain.  But, by the second week of practice, the coach said I could go first.

Despite the fact that swimming is so new in Ghana, and that the Ghanaians who joined the swim team probably just learned to swim in the last year or two, the practices are incredibly difficult. Our coach throws  out 100 meter butterflies like they are  nothing. At one point he said, “We are now going to swim an easy 100 butterfly.” I responded by saying “I don’t think I can do a 100 butterfly again, right now.” The coach explained to me that this was supposed to be an easy 100 butterfly, not fast, he said I could do it “No problem.”  “Ummm” I wanted to say to him, “Have YOU ever swam an easy 100 butterfly?”  The answer is no! There is no such thing! Whether you are doing it first or last, and whether you are doing one or twelve, the 100 butterfly can never be easy. I tried explaining this to the coach, but he didn’t get it. So I swam the 100 meters my way, half butterfly and half freestyle! Practice got much better after that. I am finally going first in my lane, and the coach seems to be OK that I don’t do exactly what he says all the time.

Well, he was OK with it  until I opted to skip dry land practice on Tuesday mornings (which by the way, takes place at 5:30 AM) because, as I  told you, I. Can’t. Run. It’s almost…no it is…really embarrassing. I am the first one to finish my laps in swimming.  Most people do a 200 meter warm down, I have to do a 400 meter warm down becasue I finish too fast, but when it comes to running, I am always the last to finish…and not by a little…by a lot. When I walked in to swim pratice on Wednesday, my coach told me to go run 15 laps. I have never run more than 1 lap in my entire life. So, in the dark, I, and all the others who had opted to skip dry land practice on Tuesday, started to run about 4 miles.  I. Can’t.  Run.  Even after the 15 laps.  I was no better than I have ever been. After we finished the four miles, our coach explained that we held up the entire team by skipping dry land, and we were not allowed to swim that day-as punishment- and if we skipped the next week’s dry land practice, we would be kicked off the team. Fabulous.  Now I have to run every week. Hmmm….maybe I will be able to run by the time I get home?  Nope.  I have had illusions about being able to run before.  I have tried before. I am not going to be able to run.  Even if I have to run to swim.

Only now, after a couple weeks of swim practices, are we are starting to talk about swim meets. Apparently, we will be having a meet at the end of this month, and we will be swimming only against ourselves. Ummm, OK.  We will be split up into teams, each representing a traditional Hall on campus. When we went over the events that we would be swimming, they declared I would be doing the 200IM…..because I am the only one that can do all the strokes. Love it. I will also be doing the 400 meter freestyle…because I am the only one that can swim distance. I love that too. I am stoked to be a part of a swim meet once again, and I almost can’t wait for the end of the month.

Swimming really has become a lifelong sport for me. I am excited that one day I will be able to say “Yeah, I swam in college” even if it was just for a semester, but it was for a semester in Africa!  Pictures will be coming soon!

The Jesus Crusades

Here in Ghana, a primary topic of conversation is religion. If you meet someone new, it is likely that you will be talking about religion in the first five minutes. I  have had the basis of Christianity explained to me a couple times before class begins. I will not hesitate to say that it is extremely uncomfortable – especially because I do not share the Christian beliefs.

Many people have questioned me on my beliefs, and gone into detail about their own. When I explain that I do not believe in a higher power, they usually look flabbergasted and sputter “So, you don’t believe in anything?” I hate that question. It is always meant to be demeaning. I usually respond with “Actually, I am a firm believer in evolution.” Once I got particularly annoyed, and responded that I believed in Santa Claus!  I am not sure the person I was talking to understood, but it was enough to get him to change the subject. In reality, I believe in so much more than Santa Claus. I believe in love, in hope, in creating your own happiness, in passion, in integrity, in kindness, in honesty, and in a good sense of humor. I believe in over coming obstacles, in learning all you can, and in a positive outlook on life. I just don’t believe in a higher power. I am not religious. But I have beliefs. I have integrity. I have morals.   I have ethics. I live by them. I don’t need a higher power.  I know what the right thing to do is, and I try to do it.

When conversations about my beliefs versus someone else’s beliefs arise, I usually try to change the subject for fear of offending someone – but “they” (and “they” are usually Christians) are often quite persistent and, like I said, almost all of them eventually ask me “So, you don’t believe in anything?” It takes everything I have not to snap, “Don’t ask me stupid questions!” Interestingly, after our conversations about religion, most of the Ghanaian students just don’t believe me.  They end the conversation with,  “I know that you know there is a God.”

In addition to the high level of personal commitment to religion here, and the insistence on talking about it, there is also a huge religious movement on campus. Today it was the first day of “The Jesus Crusades”. There is a Jesus Crusades bus that goes all around campus picking people up to join in the crusade. Yes, the bus is out in the early in the morning.  Yes,  it is out late at night.  Yes, it is in front of the hostels I live in.  The bus parks outside the hostel (and other places on campus) and The Jesus Crusaders shout into a loud speaker about God, telling everyone that they are sinners, that they need to join the movement, and that they need to see the light.

When I went out for drinks with one of my professors, he asked me what religion was like where I came from. I explained that the town my university is in has more churches per square mile than any other city in California, but that I have been questioned more sharply and more frequently about religion here in Ghana than I ever have been at home.

The professor explained to me that he does not agree with the way religion is dealt with on campus. He said the Jesus Crusades just seem to be about causing noise, and they are really out to make money- not to actually spread the faith. He also told me about a huge controversy they had on campus last semester about students gathering in classes and leading prayers before lectures begin. (According to my friend Mie, her business class still opens that way. )

What I really appreciated about this professor was his ability to separate science from religion. He told me that he likes science because you can always question it, where as he could never question his faith. It is clear to me that many of the students here have a lot of trouble separating the two. When I asked my professor about the evolution class that is offered on campus, he explained that it often sparks some discomfort in the classroom. He also told me that sometimes, when he asks a question on a test, many students will respond with answers such as,  “It happens that way because that was what God intended.” That was especially troubling for him. Why don’t the students just leave the space blank if they don’t know the non-religious answer?

Overall, religion here is quite prevalent. I have been invited to a number of churches on campus, as well as some off of campus. I was genuinely interested in going until I heard a story about one Obruni going to church and being pulled up in front of the church and told to speak in tongues. That sounds incredibly uncomfortable, and even scary, so I now opt out of those invitations.

I will stick to sleeping in on Sunday mornings, and being as respectful as I can to everyone else.

I hope the Jesus Crusades will be over soon.  I’d like to sleep in this Sunday.


WARNING:  ADVISORY!  Subject matter may be disturbing.  My mother has refused to read this…(but she’s fully in support of my actions).

Me being mad. No, that is not a frog in my hand. (It's a lime.)

Physiology was the last place I wanted to spend my Friday morning. Class was supposed to start at 8:30, and by 8:45, we finally got rolling. I don’t know why, but it was all I could do to stop myself from laughing. It was Friday, early in the morning, the air in the classroom was so still that it was suffocating, we started late again, the guy in front of me smelled rather ripe, and I was tired. Why I thought it was so funny was beyond me- but I was in a really truly great mood. That is, until I had to go to the practical that followed.

I walked in, and the first thing we did was check our grades from the previous labs. I got 24/50…not as bad as 9 3/4 out of 25…but still not even close to passing.

Then, I started reading the procedure for the day’s lab. To me it sounded like animal cruelty at its finest. If you have a squirmy stomach- please do not feel the need to keep reading.

Step One: Trap a slightly anesthetized toad on a cork board.

My first thought was; we are doing experiments on live animals? I don’t know if I am going to be able to do this.

Step Two: Pin the food at opposite poles of the hole so as to stretch the web.

That is when the lab assistants started talking. They told us that we had to actually knock out the frogs ourselves by doing one of two things; either hit it really hard across the head, or hit its head really hard on the table so it passes out. But- don’t kill it, the blood needs to be pumping so you can observe the arterioles, capillaries, and venules.

That was when I decided to walk out. I am not about to knock out anything by slamming it against something, and then pin it to a board. I wouldn’t do that to my worst enemy I am not going to do it to a frog. The worse part was that the experiment didn’t stop there. After the frog was pinned to the board, and we had drawn what we needed to, we then had to apply different drugs to the frog to see how it reacted.

I felt like this was the equivalent of knocking a person out by hitting them over the head with a frying pan, sticking a nail through their foot to pin them to a wall, observing their inners, and then putting heroine in their arm to see how they react. That to me sounds a lot like torture. No, I absolutely refuse to be a part of this lab.

It was animal cruelty at its finest. I understand the need to do tests on live animals I don’t necessarily agree with it, but I understand that we can learn a lot from it. However, in a lab at this level, I felt it was completely unnecessary. There are much more humane ways to observe a frog than by hitting it against a table. A video online for instance would be a good start.

The other thing I have trouble comprehending, was that everyone else seemed to be ok with this lab. They all stayed, and the only thing that made everyone else squirm was the fact that they had to touch the frog. Just remembering the noise the frogs were making makes my insides twist more than the idea of touching a frog.

I decided the best way to spend the rest of my morning would be to watch Disney’s the Princess and the Frog. It did after all, have frogs in it, and everyone is relatively nice to each other in the movie.

After, when I felt that the frogs could still live happily ever after, I picked up my lab notebook again, and started researching humane ways to complete this lab. When the due date comes, I will be turning in a list of reasons why I felt this lab was wrong, as well as what could be done to make it better. I will keep you updated on the grade and feedback my report receives.

The 11th Minute

After a long talk with my mom about how the first half of my trip to Ghana has gone, we agreed on one thing; for every 10 minutes of good stuff, there is the eleventh minute of frustration. Man is that eleventh minute a long minute. In long car rides when I was little, I used to ask “How much longer until we get there?” and my mom would always respond “one hour” and I would say, “Well, is it a short hour or a long hour?” My mom always insisted there was no such thing, but I knew there was. You see, when everything is fun and games, an hour passes by really fast-that’s a short hour. In a hot, cramped car, with Mom’s old-timer’s music playing and a brother and sister whining, and when I am dying to get where we are going, an hour passes really slowly- that is a long hour. Well let me tell you this eleventh minute business in Ghana is giving my former “long hours” a run for the money.

On the first day of school, I was pumped for a new class. Finally, I am going to have a class with a professor who knows how to use a computer and will not give repeat lectures on a regular basis (as happened in one of my classes last semester at CSUS).  Well, my professor in my first class in Ghana can use a computer…but whether the power is on is another question. Having power in Ghana is not a given. There have been no repeat lectures, thank goodness, but lectures can, and do, go well over time-and by well over time I mean a solid 40 minutes passed the scheduled end time.  Not one Ghanian student complains.  They all sit  quietly and continue taking notes!  Man, is that one long eleventh minute for an obruni like me.

On the first day of school, we had a stroke of luck-a good 10 minutes!- no lab scheduled for that day. Yay!! Three hours free time. Then the 11th minute hit. “Oh, but before you go, the head of the department wants to give you a brief introduction to this class.”  I was in a basic Chordate Physiology class that all Ghanaian students in the science field have to take. So, thinking that this may just be for the regular students, I turned to my obruni friend (the only other foreigner in the class)  and asked “Do you think international students have to stay?”  Between us we decided, being good students, that we should stay, after all a brief introduction didn’t sound so bad.

Of course we had to wait for the professor to show up (in Ghana the students are always on time and always show up, the professors, not so much). Fifteen minutes later, the head of the department finally showed up. He started talking about names. Not the scientific naming system.  Names. First names. He explained why names, like Abby or Alyssa, are important and I am thinking, “What does this have to do with anything?” After about an hour, the professor, the head of the department, starts talking about snakes. Not the physiology of snakes, just snakes. This man, the Head of the Department, came into the class and talked about names and snakes for 2 1/2 hours!  I thought that eleventh minute would never end. Three hours of free time out the window while I listened to a lecture on names and snakes. To add insult to serious injury, after listening to him talk for two and one half hours,  I didn’t even walk out of the classroom with a syllabus or with any idea of what we would be doing in that class. No “Introduction”, brief or otherwise.

Little did I know, my experience with these long eleventh minutes would be never ending. The labs began the following week. Ever been  in a lab with sixty-five students crowded around five test tubes? (That’s thirteen students to each test tube!) I would not recommend it. Granted, we only actually do something involving a test tube every once in awhile. In most labs we are expected to draw. Draw! I may not be able to tell you how the heart of a mammal compares to the heart of a worm, but I can draw you a damn good tilapia fish. I have drawn that tilapia fish, and the frog, and the stingray, and the duck, multiple times in labs. I am very good at the art of sketching preserved specimens.

However,  I am really worried about my grades. The last lab I got back received a shocking 9 3/4 points out of 25. Why? My copy of the lab manual did not have half the questions in it.  The person who graded my lab drew a huge X on my paper and subtracted all the points for those (missing) questions.  Now this was getting to be an especially bad eleventh minute. As politely as I could, I went up to the front and asked the people who do the grading (graduate students- not the professor) why I got marked down when no questions were on the paper for me to answer! Well, of course  they told me, it was because I didn’t answer the questions. How could I?  They weren’t in my manual!  Still trying to be polite, I explained that I did not know there were additional questions because they weren’t there.  Then I asked if I could I please make up the points. The answer? “NO! We already went over the answers. You can’t make up the questions.”  OK, I am not going to be polite anymore. “Excuse me” (OK, I was going to be a little bit polite), “This is not my fault, I bought my copy of the manual from YOU. You gave me a defective copy, so I would like to know how I am going to make up the points.” I am not lying when I say it took a fair amount of arguing with them for the graduate students to agree on giving me a makeup assignment…next week. This I must say, is a never ending minute. I went back the following week, and asked for the make up questions.  I was told, “Ohhhh, about that, come back next week”.  Sometimes the eleventh minute goes on for weeks, and weeks, and weeks…

After that particularly long eleventh minute,  I decided to go to the International Student Office (where they have internet that works, and computers that work for that matter) and finish that week’s assignment and turn it in, so at least I won’t be out any points for that lab. With 9 3/4 points out of 25 on the  last week’s lab–and a dubious make-up “promise” I can’t afford to slack off.  But when I get to the International Student Office, the power is out. You know what that means, right?  No internet. No computer.   I will not finish my assignment on time.  I will loose more points. Great. So, I walk back to my hostel in the soggy heat, through all the dust, and the people staring at me (a white girl in Ghana=stares), and the cars honking at me, and plan on taking a nice cold shower (there’s no warm water in the showers-ever.  I’ve been taking cold showers for eight weeks). But, another eleventh minute, the water is out. I can comfortably say, I was livid. I can handle a professor showing up late, a lecture that went an hour too long, arguing with graders for the points I deserve, the power being out, not being able to finish an assignment on time, my personal computer being broken, and walking home in 100% humidity while people stare at me, but now there’s no running water? You have got to be kidding me. I stink.  I am covered in dust.  My feet look like they have never seen a clean day in my life (which, I think my mom would argue is true). My bag is heavy. I’m tired. The only form of entertainment I currently have is my Kindle (which I love, but I have been here 8 weeks, and read 8 books…), and now I can’t take a shower? Or flush a toilet! Please excuse my language but I think I may have said, a couple times, “This is bullshit.” (Sorry mom). The 11th minute strikes yet again.

At the end of most days, I call my mom and tell her everything, and all I can do is laugh.  It feels better than screaming. When I found out that Microsoft Office would take 267 hours to download onto a computer that I waited for weeks to get, that I paid $200 over the regular price for, I actually laughed out loud.  I love Africa (and only 1/11th part of that statement is sarcastic!)

All I can say is, Africa is not for the faint hearted, the weak willed, or the unbendable. I’ve had a lot of good times here and a lot of….long eleventh  minutes.  If I could go back, knowing all this, I would not change my decision to study here. When I told my mom that, she laughed.  She said it’s like the decision to have kids. People will ask, “If you knew then, what you know now, would you still have kids?” ” Of course,” most people always say…but there is that moment, that flicker of a moment, when they truly consider the option, before rushing to say, again, ” Of course,  of course!”

Yes, I am glad I came to Ghana.  Really, really glad.  I like it here. I am enjoying myself, I’ve made some good friends, but I must say, I am looking forward to my next semester in New Zealand more than ever before. They have reliable running water, right?  Hot and cold? I won’t have to draw that tilapia again, will I?  I won’t have to eat cabbage and rice from a street vendor every day (well, except for the days that she runs out before I get there), will I? It won’t take 267 hours to download Microsoft Office, will it? But, will I have as much fun?  Will I learn as much? (Will I learn as much about dealing with frustration, about making my voice heard?!)  Will I be as enraptured with the people and the culture and the scenery? Will I be as glad about making the decision to study in New Zealand as I am about my decision to study in Ghana?


Mie, a fellow exchange student from Denmark, and I have become pretty good travel buddies. We are lucky to have each other because we both enjoy doing the same types of things. We decided that the one of the most exciting parts about Togo, is that Voodoo is widely practiced there.

While in Togo, we got in a cab to go to a fetish market right outside of Lome! When we walked in, there were lots of Voodoo products on tables.  We paid to have a tour of the market, and the guide showed us a number of things. It was a little unnerving. There were monkey heads, snake heads, leopard heads, elephant feet, hippo skulls,  hyena hides,  thunder stones, and voodoo dolls,  It was pretty clear to us that some of the animals  had been poached, even if the guide claimed that they had all died of “natural causes”.

After the tour, the guide lead us into a room with the chief. The chief showed us a number of different products that were for sale, and said he would bless them in our name so that we could go home and have the protection of their religion. I decided that was something I would like to take home! First, he showed us a doll that would give our household luck, (good luck!) then an ebony seed that would give us a good night’s sleep if we preformed a special ritual with it before we went to bed, then another voodoo doll-one that would give us protection, then another mystery object that would guarantee us good travels, then a necklace that would bring us luck, and finally, a stick that was supposed to bring us true love.

I decided I wanted the doll that would bring my household luck- and I wanted it to be blessed by the chief. After I picked it up, the chief sent the other girls outside the tent and then looked at me. He explained that I NEEDED that stick that would bring me true love. Of course I said, “No thank you.  Just the doll.”.  At that point, he walked to the door, looked outside and told the girls I was with to move even farther away. He looked back at me and said, “I can see it in your eyes, you need this stick.” (He called it something else- but it was essentially a stick). I wanted to laugh out loud, but then I agreed with him!  I “needed” the “stick”.

Then the ritual started. The chief chanted and told me to put my items inside a turtle shell, which I did. He then waved his arms above the “stick” in the turtle shell and said things that I could not understand. Then he handed the items back to me and I had to say my name into them 3 times, and bring them to my chest 5 times. It was extremely interesting, and different, and all I wanted to do was laugh.

Then the chief explained to me how to make true love happen. All I have to do is put this stick in the middle of my hand and spray my perfume on it three times. Then I have to rub it back and forth in my hand, bring it to my mouth and say the name of the man I want seven times, and then my name seven times. After performing this ritual, I must hide the stick and not tell a soul about it or what I did…especially the guy I am in love with! Then, I must not let my hand come into contact with anything, until I walk to the man I love and shake his hand! When he smells the perfume that rubbed on my hand and feels the “magic” from the stick, he will fall in love with me! Please, if you are the man of my dreams, forget you ever read this ;). The other cool thing is that if I want to reverse the spell, all I have to do is perform the same ritual again, and flip the stick over, and the love will be ended. So I can love, and love again. All the girls in my program begged me to try it and see if it works.  To tell the truth,  after the number of marriage proposals I received in Togo, I am not entirely sure this “stick” necessary. I shall have to wait until I get home to use it. I then got a picture with the chief, and packed all my items in my bag and walked out.

My afternoon at the fetish market and my experience with voodoo has been one of the most interesting-and bizarre-cultural experience I have had.

My First Lab Practical

The Library Building at the University of Ghana

So, in case you were all wondering- my professors did end up coming to class on the second week of school. Here, the original time tables, the published ones, are not necessarily  permanent, so several of my classes changed times. Wonderful. Now, I have labs Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. That means no weekend trips and no mid week trips. Fabulous. Then, I went to my Tuesday night class (5:30-6:30) and my professor said the time was “quite ungodly”- I was about to agree, because I really do not like evening classes- but then he changed it to 7:30am. That, in my book, is the most ungodly time I have ever heard. It takes me a half hour to walk to class, so that mean I have a cold shower at 6:00am on Wednesday mornings. My mom told me to look for the good in every situation. I’m still looking…

Lecture Theater Two, where all of my classes are held

Since it’s the third week of school, labs have finally begun. They are unlike any lab I have ever been to. I am currently enrolled in “Comparative Animal Physiology”, and we are studying the digestive system. When I walked into lab, I saw two men with chickens outside, and I didn’t think anything of it. Then 15 minutes later, the same two men walked in with now dead, freshly dissected, defeathered chickens. Wow. When I looked around the room, there were also freshly dissected rats, fish, and bunnies (one of them even had a full bladder). This was new.

The Zoology Department, two weeks before the chicken massacre.

The other thing about classes at the university of Ghana is, you always have to bring money with you. They make copies of books and manuals so often, and you have to pay for the copies of everything, as having your own textbook is seen as being much too expensive. My lab manual was 5 cedi. When I looked to see what we were doing for the day (the introduction was “please take this lab seriously”), it was all drawing. At home, we do draw, but not much.  Here,  we draw for a full three hours- and everything is so particular.

Being an obruni, I made the mistake of bringing only pens. I have never been told so many times that I am supposed to be using pencil. I won’t be making that mistake again. I also now know I am not allowed to shade anything, everything must be done with uniform darkness, I must write the title in a specific order, first letter capitalized, but not all the letters, underline with a ruler, label with a ruler, write the magnification on the lower right hand side of the picture. Oh my goodness- I am not sure what my grades are going to look like.

After we finished drawing the freshly dissected specimens, we were lead to microscopes. For fifty students they had 4 microscopes, and we all had to draw what we saw in each one. It took forever. Overall, I am not quite sure what to say about the lab. The specimens were interesting. I am glad I have a strong stomach…and I tried not to think about the animals too much. However, all the drawing!  We weren’t even told what exactly we were supposed to label.  Basically, it was a free-for all, and we all had to push and shove to get a good view of the specimens.  Four microscopes shared between fifty students doesn’t leave much elbow room. I kind of miss my Chem labs back home- never thought I would say that.

Home Sweet Home, a 30 minute walk from class in 100% humidity.

Mosquito netting is held up with Duct Tape brought from US.

Internet has been down for a week at a time.

My bathroom.

Not only is there not any hot water, ever. There’s not even a hot water TAP!

View from my front door.

The Night Market (but it’s not open at night, so I don’t  know why it is called the “night” market) next to my dorm.

I have found a lady who bakes cookies and cooks dinner.  I often buy breakfast and dinner from her, and I haven’t gotten sick! (I think she is the only lady in Ghana who cooks with vegetables, so I consider myself very fortunate to have found her.)